 |
A sample page
from the plans:
Below is just a
small section from the plans which gives you a very good idea of what
to
expect. It's not unlike 'painting by numbers' only without the paint. Please note that for
simplicity not all pictures are shown. The plans can be downloaded in just a few minutes.
They come as a PDF file less than 4 mb in size with 70 pages, 100 photos and bonus
sections full of useful information.
expect. It's not unlike 'painting by numbers' only without the paint. Please note that for
simplicity not all pictures are shown. The plans can be downloaded in just a few minutes.
They come as a PDF file less than 4 mb in size with 70 pages, 100 photos and bonus
sections full of useful information.
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Before You Start
The marking out procedure has been kept as simple and as consistent as possible. For the most part,
measurements will be made working from left to right.
Measurements are made starting from one point, and marking along the tape measure. At each mark
you will write a number. These numbers will be joined up accordingly and the pattern will come to
resemble a dinghy and not just lots of lines.
Marking up is not hard but neither is it quick, so be prepared. All you have to do is follow the
instructions.
Follow the instructions carefully. Marking out is a very simple process when you get the hang of it, so
beware of ‘rushing’. Read through a section before you actually do anything, making sure you
understand the instructions before you start marking or cutting.
To simplify matters, there is a photo of each finished piece at the beginning of each section to give you
an idea of what you are making.
A soft pencil is recommended for marking, since anything else you use will be hard to remove before
varnishing. You are going to make a lot of lines on your wood so don’t sand it before you start - wait
until it’s all cut out. You will be told when to sand anyway. Don’t press hard when marking. A soft
pencil kept sharp will be fine.
Have a different colour ball point pen or pencil for the cut lines. Red is used because it contrasts well
against the other marks so there can be no mistake about where to cut.
Many of the pieces are the same for both port and starboard, so often you will make first one side,
and then you will use this as a template to make the other side.
To simplify things, a few often used words have been abbreviated:
BLHC = Bottom Left Hand Corner
TLHC = Top Left Hand Corner
BRHC = Bottom Right Hand Corner
TRHC = Top Right Hand Corner
FWD = Bow of boat
AFT = Stern of boat
TOP = Top
BTM = Bottom
PORT = The left hand side of the boat when you are at the stern looking forwards.
STB = The right hand side of the boat when you are at the stern looking forwards.
You will often be asked to mark Fwd, Aft, Top and Btm, on the pieces of wood when marking out.
This is to avoid the possibility of confusion. If you’re not happy with all this writing on your work, you
could use masking tape and write on that instead.
Some bits are easier to mark out when orientated in a certain way. You will be told whether to place
the work in the ‘Portrait’ or ‘Landscape’ position before you start on each piece.
Please note: At the beginning of each section there is a photograph of the finished piece to give you an
idea of what you are making.
The marking out procedure has been kept as simple and as consistent as possible. For the most part,
measurements will be made working from left to right.
Measurements are made starting from one point, and marking along the tape measure. At each mark
you will write a number. These numbers will be joined up accordingly and the pattern will come to
resemble a dinghy and not just lots of lines.
Marking up is not hard but neither is it quick, so be prepared. All you have to do is follow the
instructions.
Follow the instructions carefully. Marking out is a very simple process when you get the hang of it, so
beware of ‘rushing’. Read through a section before you actually do anything, making sure you
understand the instructions before you start marking or cutting.
To simplify matters, there is a photo of each finished piece at the beginning of each section to give you
an idea of what you are making.
A soft pencil is recommended for marking, since anything else you use will be hard to remove before
varnishing. You are going to make a lot of lines on your wood so don’t sand it before you start - wait
until it’s all cut out. You will be told when to sand anyway. Don’t press hard when marking. A soft
pencil kept sharp will be fine.
Have a different colour ball point pen or pencil for the cut lines. Red is used because it contrasts well
against the other marks so there can be no mistake about where to cut.
Many of the pieces are the same for both port and starboard, so often you will make first one side,
and then you will use this as a template to make the other side.
To simplify things, a few often used words have been abbreviated:
BLHC = Bottom Left Hand Corner
TLHC = Top Left Hand Corner
BRHC = Bottom Right Hand Corner
TRHC = Top Right Hand Corner
FWD = Bow of boat
AFT = Stern of boat
TOP = Top
BTM = Bottom
PORT = The left hand side of the boat when you are at the stern looking forwards.
STB = The right hand side of the boat when you are at the stern looking forwards.
You will often be asked to mark Fwd, Aft, Top and Btm, on the pieces of wood when marking out.
This is to avoid the possibility of confusion. If you’re not happy with all this writing on your work, you
could use masking tape and write on that instead.
Some bits are easier to mark out when orientated in a certain way. You will be told whether to place
the work in the ‘Portrait’ or ‘Landscape’ position before you start on each piece.
Please note: At the beginning of each section there is a photograph of the finished piece to give you an
idea of what you are making.
Marking Out
THE TRANSOM (4 pieces)
We are going to commence by making the stern post/transom assembly. It is made up of four identical
pieces. We will mark out one, then cut it out and clean it up. We will then use this as a template to
make the other three.
Take one of the three 10mm thick planks and cut off four lengths, measuring 410 mm long. Use your
set square to ensure that you mark them at 90 degrees to the edge of the plank.
Now take one of these pieces which should be 160mm x 410mm. Lay it in front of you in the
“portrait” position. To avoid confusion, label this piece “transom template” and mark the top and the
bottom.
Lay the tape measure from the BLHC across the bottom and mark twice, once at 55mm and again at
105mm.
From your first mark (55mm) draw a line IN RED to the TLHC. Then draw a line from your second
mark (105mm) IN RED to the TRHC.
Now cut off the wood on the outside of the RED lines. You should have a shape not dissimilar to a
simple oar blade, (see above). You will find it easier to cut a cleaner line if you start to cut from the
top and saw down, following the grain.
Clean up the cuts you have made with a plane. Note: Plane down from the widest end to the
narrowest end, following the grain.
Round off all 4 corners with about a 10mm radius curve. Cut out as best you can with the jigsaw and
finish with some 80 grit sandpaper and a block.
THE TRANSOM (4 pieces)
We are going to commence by making the stern post/transom assembly. It is made up of four identical
pieces. We will mark out one, then cut it out and clean it up. We will then use this as a template to
make the other three.
Take one of the three 10mm thick planks and cut off four lengths, measuring 410 mm long. Use your
set square to ensure that you mark them at 90 degrees to the edge of the plank.
Now take one of these pieces which should be 160mm x 410mm. Lay it in front of you in the
“portrait” position. To avoid confusion, label this piece “transom template” and mark the top and the
bottom.
Lay the tape measure from the BLHC across the bottom and mark twice, once at 55mm and again at
105mm.
From your first mark (55mm) draw a line IN RED to the TLHC. Then draw a line from your second
mark (105mm) IN RED to the TRHC.
Now cut off the wood on the outside of the RED lines. You should have a shape not dissimilar to a
simple oar blade, (see above). You will find it easier to cut a cleaner line if you start to cut from the
top and saw down, following the grain.
Clean up the cuts you have made with a plane. Note: Plane down from the widest end to the
narrowest end, following the grain.
Round off all 4 corners with about a 10mm radius curve. Cut out as best you can with the jigsaw and
finish with some 80 grit sandpaper and a block.
Now you have a
perfect template with which to mark the remaining three transom pieces.
Draw around your template on the other three pieces, cut out as before but don't bother to clean them
up, you'll do this after they are glued together. Note: When marking around templates it's a good idea
to clamp the template to the wood. This ensures a perfect result.
Once the four pieces are made, choose the best piece with the nicest grain. (This will be going on the
outside of the boat) and mark it 'Transom Outside'. Now put it somewhere safe; you won't be needing
this piece for a while as it will be screwed on at the very end. Do not glue this to the rest of the
transom.
Draw around your template on the other three pieces, cut out as before but don't bother to clean them
up, you'll do this after they are glued together. Note: When marking around templates it's a good idea
to clamp the template to the wood. This ensures a perfect result.
Once the four pieces are made, choose the best piece with the nicest grain. (This will be going on the
outside of the boat) and mark it 'Transom Outside'. Now put it somewhere safe; you won't be needing
this piece for a while as it will be screwed on at the very end. Do not glue this to the rest of the
transom.
